Archive for June, 2008

Small Computers

Friday, June 27th, 2008

Today, small form factor computers demolish the myth that bigger PCs are faster. Specially designed SFF computers from Ovi PC, like the Prometheus, deliver tower-crushing performance in one-third the space, and at the fraction of the price.

In today’s world, the core of technological advancement lies in miniaturization and nano technology. Advancements in these areas are seen in our cell phones, PDAs, laptops, and even in the world of medicine. Unfortunately, the world of desktop computing has not adapted well to this new cutting edge technology. Many huge corporations, who should be at the forefront of this movement, are in fact the ones lagging behind. Today we still see huge 50lb desktop towers paraded in retail outlets all across the United States. Even worse is the saturation of the market of sub-par products like $299.99 desktop towers that were outdated 2 years before they were advertised. Many computer companies are in need of change and reform to continue to keep up with new technology.

In addition, one of the bonuses of miniaturization is cost cutting. Researchers and manufacturers are continually finding ways to save money by utilizing new technology. Production today is faster, more streamlined, more efficient, and costs less than it did 1 year ago. Yet the majority desktop computer market has been slow to take on these advancements, if at all.

Fortunately, companies like Ovi Corporation are helping lead the way with smaller, faster, and more cost effective computers. Their small form factor computers sit at the top of the ladder for system performance and size. With features including the latest dual-core processors, dual-channel DDR2 533MHz memory and high-bandwidth PCI-Express graphics cards, their models deliver the power gamers and computer buffs yearn for. Furthermore, some models like the Prometheus Pro can hold up to 4GB of DDR2 memory, three hard drives, high-definition audio cards and cutting-edge Matrix RAID Storage Technology. With Ovi PC, you get more features and technology than systems costing twice as much.

In due time the rest of the computer market will follow suit, but it takes a lot more time to turn an aircraft carrier, than a yacht. Fortunately for the computer market, companies like Ovi Corporation are working quietly behind the scenes in an attempt to bring SFF computers to the forefront of mainstream computing.

For more info on small form factor computers visit Ovi PC

Prometheus and Prometheus Pro

What Can You Do With A Mac Mini?

Friday, June 27th, 2008

If you have not seen the newest addition to the Macintosh line, it is worth taking a look. It is a very small computer that is only 6.5 x 6.5 x 2 inches. The Mac Mini is about the size of one of those internal CD-ROM drives you install into a PC. By far one of the smallest computers you can buy. And its relatively in expensive, the base model costs only $499. Additionally, you need not buy a new monitor, mouse or keyboard. It is 100% compatible with PC monitors and PC USB keyboards and mice.

But what exactly can you do with this mini computer? Quite a bit! The base model comes with more than enough features for most computer uses. It is a full fledge Macintosh, nothing small about this machine except its physical size.

In this article I will talk about three main uses for the Mac mini. First, I will discuss what Macs are known for; their audio and video capabilities. Secondly, I will discuss general Internet uses such as browsing, email and chat. Finally I will discuss word processing. These three are some of the most common tasks for most computer users.

Digital Video, Photos and Music

Music has become what Apple is known best for. Who has not seen one of their iPod music players? The Apple Macintosh comes with iTunes, which allows you to play MP3 music, as well as purchase legal copies of songs directly from the iTunes music store. Songs only cost ninety nine cents, and the selection is huge. If you have an iPod you can attach it to the Macintosh and use it directly with iTunes.

The Mac Mini also comes with iMove and iDVD. These two applications allow you to edit and burn your home movies to a DVD. However, if you want to record your own DVD’s you will need a Mac Mini with the optional DVD burner, which adds $100 to the price of the Mac Mini. If you have a digital camcorder you can transfer your movies directly into the Mac Mini.

Digital Video has become very easy with the Macintosh. Just drag clips from your video together and make a complete movie. If you are like me, your home video includes many scenes where the camcorder is not pointed where it should be. The video editing software makes it very easy to remove such footage from your movie.

If you have a video camera you can use iPhoto to download and organize your digital photos. The iPhoto application allows you to quickly move your pictures from your digital camera to the computer. Photos can be organized into catalogs and printed.

Browsing, Email and Chat

The Mac Mini comes with both Internet Explorer and the Safari browsers. Internet Explorer is provided for sites that require it for compatibility. You can also use the built in Macintosh browser Safari. Safari works very much like Internet explorer, only with many additional features and fewer security issues. Safari supports tabbed based browsing, which allows you to open multiple websites and quickly switch between them.

Email can easily be setup on a Mac with iMail. The iMail application will connect to your mail provider and allow you to send and receive mail messages. Chat is provided by iChat which allows you to use your existing instant message accounts to communicate with your friends. Additionally, most of the major chat networks have chat clients that can be downloaded free of charge for the Macintosh.

Word Processing

The Mac Mini comes with Apple Works. Apple works is a full featured office automation product, similar to Microsoft Office. It can open files created with Microsoft office. Apple Works comes with all of the standard “office applications” that you would expect. It includes a word processor similar to Microsoft Word. Additionally, Apple works includes a database application, similar to Microsoft Access. Spreadsheet functions are provided as well, similar to Microsoft Excel. Finally, a presentation application is also included, similar to Microsoft Powerpoint.

The word processor is full featured and includes all of the tolls you have come to expect. Files created with Microsoft word can be opened. Additionally, you can save your files as Microsoft Word documents. Whether you are writing a report for school or a resume for a new job, Apple Works is ready.

Conclusions

The Mac Mini is a very powerful computer, despite its small physical size. The Mac mini also comes with a great deal of software already loaded. The only add-on that I discussed in this article is a $100 DVD burner, if you want to record your movies to DVD.

Using a Macintosh is very similar to Windows. The average Windows user will soon be right at home with a Macintosh. Many things are actually much easier on the Macintosh. The Macintosh operating system is based upon the industrial strength UNIX operating system. This makes for a very stable operating system, without many crashes. If you are thinking of trying something other than Windows, the Mac Mini is a great option.

Jeff Heaton is a college professor and author. To read more articles by Jeff Heaton visit http://www.heatonresearch.com.

Flash Your ATI Video Card’s BIOS

Friday, June 27th, 2008

Flash your ATI video card BIOS.

You will need the following:

1. 1.44MB FDD (floppy)

2. FLASHROM utility copy

3. Compatible BIOS file for your video card. (search the manufactures website for bios details)

4. Required Drivers. (check manufactures website)

Alright now

First make an ATI BIOS flash boot disk.

-Bios flash operations for video must be performed in DOS.

-You will need a DOS boot disk, you can obtain one if you do not already ahve one at bootdisk.com, download there dr DOS image file after that run the .exe file that comes with it. Which will create a clean DOS boot disk. (if any problems folow instruction son the website)

-If you need other ways of obtaining a boot disk just post in a related thread.

Now that you have a DOS boot disk, copy the BIOS file you downloaded and the FLASHROM.exe file onto the disk.

Second

Make a backup of your ATI video card BIOS

Make a backup of your current video card BIOS before flashing the bios, incase of problems. (better safe than sorry)

-boot your computer with the boot flash-disk you had created in the first step.

-during the “A:\” prompt type “flashrom.exe -s 0 backup.rom” ENTER

-now the utlity FLASHROM will make a backup of your video’s bios onto the bios flash disk (called backup.rom)

-Just in case, if we have to go back to the original bios.

Third

Flash your ATI video card’s bios

-at the A:\ prompt type the following to flash your video bios

-”flashbios -p 0 (name of new bios file you downloaded including the extention) hit ENTER
(no brackets around the name of your new bios file)

-Flashrom will overwrite your odl bios with your new bios.

-if any errors ocured do not restart; consult troubleshooting.

-if there is a pause in the procedure, for say the bios types do not match you may use a “-f” switch to force the operation
(force if certian the bios suits your video card)

Forcing the BIOS flash type:

During the thrid section instead of typing -”flashbios -p 0 (name of new bios file you downloaded including the extention)

Type

-”flashrom -f -p 0 (name of new bios file you downloaded including the extention)

-If you had made it this far without any errors and everything seems to have gone correctly, than restart your system.

-monitor the post screen for the video card info

-double check that your procedure worked and your bios has worked correctly.

-also watch to see if your OS boots correctly

-plz keep in mind that your new bios may need new up to date drivers.

Hooray! Congrats! You have successfully changed your video card’s BIOS.

Jason Barrett
http://www.computing-forums.com

Buying a New Computer

Friday, June 27th, 2008

Someone recently asked me “I teach senior citizens in a community based free computer lab. They often ask what to look for when buying a computer, what software they need for email, basic Internet usage, word processing, etc. Many are on a limited budget. What would you suggest they need as a minimum?”

Recommendations For a New Computer

The good news is that computer prices have dropped a lot over the past few years, and the computing power you get for your money is going up! I don’t recommend used computers for anyone, because the rate of change of computer technology will render most systems nearly obsolete within three years. If you’re a computer novice, wondering what kind of computer, monitor, hard drive, memory, and operating system to get… here’s some advice to get you rolling.

Windows or Mac?

You may have friends, relatives or neighbors trying to pull you into the “Windows vs. Mac” holy wars. In my opinion, the choice of operating system really doesn’t matter. From a beginner’s perspective, each has point & click interfaces that are pretty easy to use. Both will take you to the same Internet, and enable you to send and receive email. Both offer word processing, and the documents they create are interchangeable. Because Windows-based computers make up 90% of the market, they are cheaper. It’s the law of supply and demand in operation. And in some areas, it may be hard to find technical or repair support for Apple Macintosh computers. So if you’re budget-minded, and you don’t have any friends willing to help you with Mac issues, I suggest you go with a Windows-based PC.

A good entry-level computer with monitor can be purchased for under $400, and sometimes you even get a printer in the deal. So what should a newbie look for in terms of speed, monitor, memory and hard drive specs? It doesn’t have to be all that confusing…

What about Horsepower?

The CPU (central processing unit, or “processor” for short) is the brain of your computer. In general, the faster the better. Processor speeds are measured in gigahertz (GHz) and as of this writing, the fastest models available operate at about 4 GHz. Entry-level machines start at about 1.5 GHz and are more than adequate for web surfing, email and word processing. If you see a computer with a processor that has a speed specified in megahertz (MHz), steer clear — these are older models.

Thanks for the Memory

The next decision you have to make is how much RAM memory you need. Don’t confuse RAM with hard drive (file storage) space. RAM is the temporary working memory that your computer uses to perform calculations and manipulate files. When you open a document, it is copied from the hard drive into RAM. As you and your word processor work on the file, the modified copy exists only in RAM. When you save the file, it is copied from RAM back to the hard drive, or permanent storage. And as with CPU power, the more RAM you have, the better your computer will perform. I recommend you have a minimum 256 megabytes (MB) of RAM, but with 512 MB you’ll notice better performance.

Hard (Drive) Decisions

The hard drive is your permanent file storage. All of your personal files, such as word processor documents, photos, music, and emails are stored here, in addition to software packages and the operating system. Most new PC’s come with a hard drive that’s 40 gigabytes (GB) or larger. I recommend you start with a hard drive of 80 GB or more, if you plan to keep lots of photos or music on your computer.

Go For a Large Monitor

Here’s the formula: Larger Monitor = Less Eyestrain and Less Scrolling. I recommend a 17-inch monitor, or even a 19-inch if you don’t mind spending a bit more. Don’t worry about brand names here, they’re all pretty much the same. Stay away from 14 or 15-inch monitors, they’re just too small to be practical.

What About Software?

Most of the software you need will come pre-installed on your new PC. Windows comes with Internet Explorer (for web browsing) and Outlook Express (for email). Many PC systems include a word processor, such as Microsoft Word, WordPerfect, or OpenOffice. If your computer doesn’t come with any of these, I suggest you purchase Microsoft Works, which will give you MS Word, a spreadsheet similar to MS Excel, and other useful programs.

Look for a computer that comes with anti-virus software pre-installed. If yours doesn’t come with any anti-virus package, check with your Internet service provider to see if they offer anything for free. Failing that, you can download the free AVG package.

Summary

So in a nutshell, here are my recommendations:

  • Look for a Windows XP-based PC with monitor for around $400
  • Processor: 1.5 GHz or better
  • RAM memory: 256 MB or better
  • Hard Drive: 80 GB or better
  • Monitor: 17-inch or larger
  • Software: Microsoft Works and AVG anti-virus

Where to Buy?Look at your local computer store first, they may have some good deals and offer local support. Office supply and electronics stores such as Staples, Office Depot, and Best Buy are good options to explore too. If you’re comfortable buying online, check out the Dell.com or Gateway.com offerings.

BOB RANKIN …is a tech writer and computer programmer who enjoys exploring the Internet and sharing the fruit of his experience with others. His work has appeared in ComputerWorld, NetGuide, and NY Newsday. Bob is publisher of the Internet TOURBUS newsletter, author of several computer books, and creator of the LowfatLinux.com website. For more helpful articles and free tech support, visit http://www.AskBobRankin.com

Testing a Transformer - How To Accurately Test A Transformer

Friday, June 27th, 2008

There is two types of transformers in the market- linear transformer and switch mode power transformer. The transformers design is different. Sometimes it is just referred as ac transformer. Linear transformer mostly used in radio, project kits, VCD and etc while switch mode transformer can be found in Monitor, Tv, Fax and so on.

A transformer consists of two or more coils wound on the same core. For power transformers, the core material is usually iron. For a radio-frequency transformer, the core material is usually ferrite or air. The basic property of a transformer is to change AC voltage. A transformer cannot change direct current voltage. A step down transformer has a lower AC output voltage at its secondary winding than the AC input voltage to its primary winding. Conversely, a step up transformer has a higher secondary than primary voltage. The transformer laminations or coating of shellac, enamel or varnish is to insulate adjacent turns from shorts between winding. I will not go too details about how transformer work and transformer calculation as you can read more details from most electrical and electronic transformers books.

How to test transformers: Transformer failures are relatively rare in most electronic equipment, compared with other components. If too much current goes through a coil or winding, the winding heats up and can either open up completely, or the insulation between turns of wire can break down, causing the coil to be partly or completely shorted.

Just like a coil, you can check continuity of any primary or secondary transformer winding. The actual value of DC resistance you read is rather meaningless, but at least you will know whether a winding is open. Checking linear transformer is quite straight forward. Apply the ac voltage to the primary winding and expect output voltage at the secondary side. No or low output voltage means the transformer winding has open or shorted winding. Look for any evidence of overheating, such as darkened or blackened areas or a burnt smell.

About how to test a power transformer-it is a little bit complicated. You cannot apply ac voltage to the equipment and expect the desire output at the secondary side without connect to load otherwise over voltage will happen (because you have removed all the secondary load) and will blow the power section which consist of power fet, pwm ic and etc. Switch mode power supply are designed to run with load while linear transformer can be test without load.

The best way to test a switch mode power transformer is first remove it from the board. Check only the primary winding as secondary winding failures are exceedingly rare. How do we know which one is the primary winding? Trace from the big filter cap the positive pin to see where the circuit goes. It will go to one of the pin of the transformer. Then look for the power fet middle pin which is the Drain and it will lead to another pin of the transformer. This two pins is the primary winding of the transformer. Checking the resistance of the primary winding only can reveal whether it is open but it cannot check if it has developed a shorted winding. Only by using a ringer test you will know if it shorted or not. A shorted turn in the primary winding can cause the power section to blow.

The cheapest ringer tester that i came across is Dick Smith LOPT METER or flyback tester. Just connect the probes to the primary winding and the result are instantly seen from the Led bar graph. 4-8 bar represent a good winding, 1-2 bar represent partial short and if the led goes off means there is a heavy short in the winding. Besides checking the transformer it can be use to check B+ COIL, horizontal yoke coil and flyback primary winding and ballast (choke).

The expensive ringer tester is from sencore equipment. Sencore LC102 and LC103C besides checking capacitor it also have the capability to check all kind of winding. Whether it is a low voltage transformer, high voltage transformer, current transformer, pulse transformer, electric transformer, custom transformer this equipment will be able to check and test it.

If you do not wish to invest on this tester you may use a light bulb to check it. Remove one of the primary winding pin and connect a 60 watt light bulb. One end to the circuit while the other to the transformer pin. If the bulb light and didn’t goes off suspect a shorted winding and if the light goes off, the winding is ok.

Transformer repair is not easy and it require a good skill to do it. Most of the transformer repairer preferred to rewind bigger winding such as fan, car alternator and starter. Switch mode power transformer is a little bit difficult to rewind because of the small size and low price.

Jestine Yong is a electronic repairer and a writer. For more information about how you can test electronic components like a professional please visit his website at http://www.testingelectroniccomponents.com

Dusting Your Computer - Keeping it Cool

Friday, June 27th, 2008

My mother always told me to dust, but I never did, mostly because I was lazy, but also because I couldn’t find any tangible benefit to dusting. I just didn’t see how I’d benefit from my room or my things being less dusty. Well now I’ve gotten a bit older, and I finally found a reason to dust - a cooler running computer. I’m going to give some background on my own system and circumstances first, then run tests before and after dusting, as well as explain how and what I used to dust. Be sure to take a look at this article - with pictures and graphs - plus a whole lot more, at aworldofhelp.com.

I’ve had the computer in question for a little over two years, a dual AMD Athlon MP workstation that while no longer the top of the line, is still plenty fast enough for what I do. The computer is running at standard speeds and specifications, and has always been very stable - but not 100%. When the system was about a year old I had been getting by with the occasional, roughly once weekly lock up. At that point, I finally spent the time to try and diagnose the problem.

To be perfectly clear, I’m talking about a lock up, where everything stops responding, the screen freezes and I have to reboot, not simply an application crash, which I can usually just blame on Microsoft. My initial thought was that the computer was overheating, specifically the CPUs. I was a little hesitant though because I was running AMD retail processors at standard specifications with AMD retail heatsinks and fans, and I figured that should have been a fine setup. But I’ve had CPUs overheat before when I was sure that was the problem and this just felt like it now. I did some research online and it looked like the AMD cooling solutions were somewhat underwhelming performers, so I broke down and bought new heatsinks and fans. These still weren’t top of the line, but they reduced my CPU temperatures immediately by about 20%.

In unscientific testing I’d say my computer was absolutely more stable after the reduction in temperature. I estimate the weekly lockup became a monthly or even every other monthly lockup. This clearly isn’t perfect for a system that really should be 99.99% stable, but it was a big improvement, and I let the problem go for a while. I will note that as many of you many assume, this computer is always on, twenty-four hours a day, seven days a week.

Anyway now it’s another year later and my computer is increasingly unstable again. I’m not going to go out and get better heatsinks and fans again, as I’m sure the improvement would be less than before. My next though was about how dusty the whole system is. I know I should have dusted it once in the last two years, but I never got around to it. I’d say I live in an average environment in terms of dustiness, not especially better or worse, and I just never thought it would make a very significant difference in my CPU temperature. As you’ll see, I was completely wrong - which incidentally might make my mother right.

Almost all users should really consider the results of both tests, possibly giving more weight to the one which most closely matches your typical computing. Even if you run predominantly business applications, you’ll almost certainly occasionally do something that falls under this content creation test, editing pictures or an occasional home movie, for example. So consider all the tests, don’t just focus on one graph.

Should you dust your computer? Yes, why not, it can’t hurt. But really, there are tangible benefits of cleaning your computer, even if it seems stable right now.

Computers and electronics in general don’t like heat. Dust blocks fans in your case, which generally cool you CPU, video card and motherboard components. Dust also blocks fans and their airflow into and out of your case. Cool air needs to be brought into a case, and then the host air dispelled. If the airways are blocked, system temperature can rise quickly. If your computer is stable but the CPU is running too hot, you cut down on its lifespan, potentially quickly.

More important to many people though, may be the result of that first heat related computer lock up. Even if it’s never been a problem before, if your computer crashes at the wrong time it can be catastrophic. Usually mine just locks up when I’m away from it, or overnight, and I just turn it back on and restart Firefox and haven’t lost anything important. But last week it locked up with unsaved graphs for my last article and Excel chose no to auto save. I spent the hour it took to redo them considering ways to eliminate these lock ups.

Of course, reducing heat is also always a priority for people who overclock their CPU. For those that don’t know, overclocking is running a CPU at a higher frequency than it was sold to run at. For example, you could take your Intel Pentium 4 that is running at a “clock” rate of 2 GHz, and try to run it at 2.1 GHz, 2.5 GHz, faster speeds, or anywhere in between. I have an old dual CPU system that was supposed to run at 366 MHz. Instead I ran the chips at 500 MHz each, which was a huge performance gain. Overclocking is actually a great way to get more “free” performance out of a system, as long as you can maintain stability. Usually the single biggest factor for success is reducing heat as much as possible.

Another thing to note is that while it is very important to keep CPU heat to a minimum, hard drives, video cards, and other components all need to be kept cool as well. In fact, I don’t really know for sure that my CPUs are the current problem. I think they are, but my next guess (if I’m correct that it’s a heat problem) would be my video card, since I’ve checked, and it runs really hot.

Consider this as well, if my CPU were to actually stop working because it was too hot, it would probably be a gradual process, and I could fix the situation by purchasing a replacement. If my hard drive crashes and ultimately loses data, that could be a much more problematic situation. I could replace the drive, but recovering the data could be far more difficult than just replacing a CPU.

I opened up the system and saw more dust than computer. All the fans were covered in dust, and their airflow was totally blocked. I put the case back on and took temperature readings of my computer both idle and when working. The tests are all run are on the following system:

CPU - Dual AMD Athlon MP 2000+ (1.67 GHz)
Motherboard - AMD K7-D
RAM - 1024 MB RAM (2 x 512 MB registered DDR 2100)
Video Card - Matrox Parhelia AGP 128 MB
HD - Segate 5400 rpm- st320410a
Windows XP SP2

I picked that unexciting hard drive because it was the only one I had that reports temperature.

For the idle readings the computer was freshly booted into Windows. To get the computer running at full load I ran two instances of Prime95, a math application that will max out a CPU (2 copies running, one each for 2 CPUs), and copied 2 GB of Music on the hard drive to another folder on the same drive. The entire process took about half an hour.

Without anything to compare them to, those numbers for the most part aren’t terribly interesting. My only reaction was that 63 degrees Celsius seems pretty hot, and the idle CPU temperatures aren’t too wonderful either. Remember, each CPU type has a different recommended temperature range. 63 degrees may be too hot for mine, but could be either acceptable, or perhaps way too hot for your own. Regardless, you hopefully will notice a relative reduction in temperature after dusting.

Dusting the computer

As I said, I’ve never dusted a computer before, but I came up with what ended up being a reasonable plan. I bought compressed air and a small brush from staples for $7 total and used a rag I have here. I made sure to unplug my computer, grounded myself to discharge static electricity by touching something metal other than my computer, opened up the case and was ready to go.

As long as you make sure your computer is unplugged, don’t get anything wet, and are gentle while you have it opened, you really shouldn’t damage anything. For the most part, the inside of your computer is delicate, but it isn’t brittle. The most notable exception is your CPU. If you were to disconnect it and pull it out of the motherboard you would expose pins on the bottom that are in fact extremely delicate.

You could do a really thorough job by taking everything apart and getting all the dust out, but I didn’t want to spend that much time doing it and I figured if I left everything connected their was less chance I’d mess something up. So I used the air, brush and rag and got the dust off the computer, taking the most time to clean the fans and the holes they blow out of.

I ran the same tests again, and the results were dramatic.

Idle, CPU 1 saw an 18% reduction in temperature, while CPU 2 is 10% cooler. That’s very important, as all those hours my computer is sitting doing very little it’s going to be considerably cooler.

At full load, CPU 1 is 21% cooler and CPU 2 is 12% cooler. These are again very impressive results, and very important as well. I have had lock ups when video encoding and doing other CPU intensive tasks, and now the chips should be running cooler while doing those.

It’s interesting that originally CPU 1 was hotter than CPU 2, and after the cleaning they switched. An important fact is that the temperature reporting on this type of dual AMD Athlon system is generally uneven. That said, CPU 1 was easier to dust around because the DVD drives were in the way of CPU 2, so I probably did a better job cleaning the former and there is still likely room for improvement in cooling the latter.

One other note, I kept track of the fan speeds before and after cleaning, and I saw about a 2% increase in the CPU fan speeds after I dusted. I wasn’t expecting this at all, and certainly can’t be certain that this will always result from dusting, but it could be very interesting for overclockers trying to eak out every last bit of fan performance.

The hard drive temperature saw a 9% improvement while idle after dusting, and again a 9% improvement at full load. It’s a nice temperature reduction for a mechanical component that will be grinding away for thousands of hours over the life of your computer.

The case temperature stayed the same throughout all the tests.

Conclusion

All in all I was surprised the results were so dramatic. I expected few degrees for the CPUs and maybe one for the hard drive, but to see a 20% reduction in temperature is just great. There is defiantly room for improvement as well. The CPU fans have covers that I could have taken off and gotten more dust out, and as I mentioned reaching one of the CPUs was harder than the other. Further, I’d say I got most of the dust inside my computer, well over 90%, but I still saw some that proved more challenging to clean that I was willing to bother with. Taking all the cards out and thoroughly cleaning the whole system would have no doubt led to even better results.

My system has maintained the cooler temperatures so far, a week after the cleaning, and I haven’t had a lock up since. I can’t be certain I’ve solved the lock up problem, but it does appear I have for now. At the very least, I can be sure CPU heat is not the problem, as now they are running at very acceptable temperatures. Your own results will vary, and may not be as dramatic if your computer wasn’t as dusty as mine. Regardless, you should see some reduction in component temperature after cleaning your system.

All in all I recommend you take a look around and inside your computer to see how it looks. If it’s dusty, $7 and an hour of your time seems like a good investment to increase the life of your computer and prevent system lock ups. I suspect many people suffer the occasional heat caused lock up, it just isn’t obvious what the problem is, and they don’t occur often enough to be a serious concern. But remember, even if you only have one heat caused lock up in the entire life of your computer, it could come at the worst time, or cause permanent damage.

Steve Perlow is the founder of aworldofhelp.com, where you can find the aworldofhelp Top Picks in desktop and notebook systems. Visit aworldofhelp.com to get answers from real people to your questions about technology, travel and more.

RAM - What is It & Why You Need Plenty

Friday, June 27th, 2008

This is the first article in the Understanding Your Computer series from aworldofhelp.com. Our goal is to help people understand how their computer works, not simply tell them what they need to buy or use. When you know how your computer works, buying the right system or upgrade is easy. The series is designed to provide valuable information to users of all knowledge levels, so if part of it seems too complicated or too simple for you, I hope you read on and get all you can out of the articles. If you have questions or comments about this or any article, please ask in the forums!

RAM - What is it & why you need plenty

Many people picture a computer as consisting in part of a

Processor - CPU

Memory - RAM

Hard Drive

The way these three components interact is important to understanding how a computer works, and ultimately to understanding why you need enough RAM for your programs. Around the Internet and in Magazines you can find recommended RAM amounts for typical users. You also will find many places proclaiming RAM as the best performance for your dollar upgrade. I don’t disagree at all, but I want you to understand what RAM actually does, and why it can be such a valuable upgrade.

I covered this subject briefly in the aworldofhelp Notebook Buyer’s Guide on page 4. The information in that article is accurate, but I want to try to make things a little clearer here.

The article is divided into four sections, covering:

1. The functions of the three components we are discussing and their relative speeds

2. Why you need RAM and what takes up RAM

3. Multitasking and how RAM improves performance

4. How much RAM you need

CPU stands for Central Processing Unit. It is the brain of your computer. When you open a program, like Microsoft Word for example, the CPU reads through lines of computer code and follows the instructions so you can use your program. When you play an audio file like an MP3, the CPU has to do work to decompress it while it plays. When you edit a picture the CPU has to perform many calculations to make even the smallest changes.

One thing to note is that the CPU actually does have a very small amount of memory in it. This is the fastest memory in a computer system, but it is so small it doesn’t really affect this article. Generally speaking, the CPU doesn’t store the information that makes up the program, MP3, or picture, it only processes it. The data has to be located somewhere in your computer, and the CPU has to find it and then retrieve it.

That action, the problem of locating the data and how it affects your overall system performance is what this article is about.

RAM

RAM stands for Random Access Memory. This memory is very fast, and you will see it in sizes like 256 MB, 512 MB, or 1024 MB. When you turn off your computer, the contents are erased, so it is only temporary memory. This is where the CPU looks first to get data to process. So if you are editing a picture, and its data is in this RAM, because RAM is fast memory, editing the picture will happen relatively quickly.

Hard Drive

Your Hard Drive is where you store all of your programs, music, video, and everything you keep on your computer. This is the memory where you store your files that remain even after you turn your system off. You will see them in all sizes, now typically ranging from 30 GB, to hundreds of GB. Hard drives are very slow compared to your CPU and RAM because they are mechanical. Inside the disk there are actually small readers that physically move around to locate and read data.

If you are editing a picture, the CPU will first look in RAM memory to see if it is there, because RAM is fast. If it isn’t, the CPU will go to the hard drive and edit the picture there. Because your hard drive is so slow, this takes a much longer time than if the picture had been in RAM.

Again, the CPU only stores a tiny bit of data, so it has to get it from somewhere to operate on. If the CPU has data to process, it will do so as fast as it can, but if it doesn’t, the brain of your computer simply sits and waits doing nothing. Only after it finds and retrieves the data it needs can it process it.

So ideally, you want your CPU to find data in the fastest place possible. As you can see, if the data is in RAM you are far better off than if it is in your hard disk because RAM is so much faster. Just take a look at the graph below. It shows the time it takes to access each memory type in nanoseconds.

Clearly, your hard drive is slow, but when you look at the above graph, and you see the numbers it is based on below, you realize just how slow it is. Each is an approximate access time in nanoseconds:

CPU 1 ns

RAM 60 ns

Hard Drive 10,000,000 ns

It should be clear why the bars for your CPU and RAM do not even show up on this graph, your hard drive is simply extremely slow.

So why bother with a hard disk?

Seeing that, you might think that it would be great if you could just use huge amounts of RAM instead of a hard disk. You are right, this would be a great situation, but as you might imagine, the faster the memory in your computer, the more expensive it is. RAM prices have come down significantly in recent years, but it will still cost you much more compared to Hard Drive space.

Computers work within this constraint - that faster memory is more expensive - by looking in the fastest place for information first, then moving to slower locations only when they need to. So if you hear your hard drive making noise or you see a light telling you it is being accessed, you know the data could not be found in RAM.

Now you know that the hard drive access that’s going on is very slow, and that is the reason your CPU, and in turn you, have to wait.

So now you know that you want lots of RAM, at least enough for all your programs, so you don’t have to access your slow hard drive too often. But what actually uses your RAM, and how can you see whether your system has enough?

Windows itself takes up a lot of RAM. Microsoft says Windows XP will run on a machine with 64 MB of RAM, though they recommend 128 MB or 256 MB. If you have even more RAM than that, and I recommend you do, Windows will use some of it as well.

Everything that loads when you boot up your computer also uses RAM. What these programs are actually doing is putting themselves in to RAM, if enough is available, so that they can be used very quickly. The problem is when there isn’t enough memory for all these programs, and your computer runs very slowly.

On my machine these programs load when I turn on my computer:

AVG Antivirus

Scanner Software

Digital Camera Software

Gmail Notifier

AOL Instant Messenger

And some server software for testing

Then, everything I run after the boot up uses more RAM. Whatever Internet Browser I use, for example, takes up RAM. Microsoft Word does too, as well as all my programs. To see how much RAM you have and how much free RAM you have, you can open up Task Manager by right clicking on the start menu and selecting it, it looks like this.

On the right, in the Physical Memory section my RAM is listed. My total and available memory is listed, and as you can see, just booting my computer into Windows XP and loading all the things I do, I have less than half of my RAM available for other programs.

Your system will probably have less total RAM, but you’ll be able to see how much and how much you have free. You can easily find out how much ram you have by right clicking on “My Computer” and going to properties, but it’s useful to see it here so you understand what the Task Manager is showing. You can use this tool to convert the number shown in “K” to a number that you may be more comfortable with, in “MB”.

K MB

On my computer, 1048040 K converts to 1023.4 MB, which is 1024 MB.

Your own system may give you a number a few megabytes lower than the actual. For example, 252 instead of 256. That is normal, and is a result of something else, like a video chip, using a portion of the RAM. The actual RAM your programs has to work with is the number listed in the Task Manager.

In my example, I have a hundreds of Megabytes of free RAM. I sometimes fill the RAM if I am video editing or photo editing, but beyond that, it is rare. This is a good thing though, remember the chart. If your RAM is full, your Hard Drive will be used more, and since it is so slow, your system will grind to near a halt.

By looking at the Task Manager, you can get a good idea of how your system is running. If you have lots of available RAM, you are in good shape. But many systems I see actually have almost no free RAM, and this is what causes the system to use the hard disk instead and run slower. Note that the available RAM will generally never hit zero, but will fluctuate around very low numbers if your system is out of memory.

Our example so far has been simplified to show how doing one thing on your computer needs memory. But a real benefit of having adequate memory is multitasking. Basically, if you are doing more than one thing at a time, you are multitasking. If you are reading this article and editing a picture at the same time, you are multitasking.

Generally, if you can switch between two open programs on your machine very quickly, they both are loaded into RAM. In this case, you can likely see plenty of available memory in Task Manager. On my machine, since I have plenty of RAM, I switch between two or three Internet browsers, Excel, PowerPoint, Instant Messenger, my audio player, and more very quickly.

On the other hand if you don’t have enough RAM, even with just two programs open, when you switch between them your computer may slow down considerably. The program you are switching to is not in RAM, and the CPU is forced to get information from the hard disk. As you open more programs, the situation only gets worse. A check on task manager in this case will likely show very little free RAM, too little in fact to fit all your programs.

How Much RAM do you need?

The best answer is that you need enough RAM to run all your programs and multitask between them quickly. If your system is running well and you check Task Manager and have lots of available RAM, you are probably in good shape. If your system is slow switching between more than one program, look at the task manager and see if your available RAM is low. If it is, adding more will likely make your entire system run faster, just by fitting more programs into RAM.

You’ll be amazed how fixing this problem will improve you computing experience overall. That is the reason so many people talk about RAM as being the best upgrade for older systems.

If you are buying a new computer 512 MB is a good amount of RAM for most users. If you edit a lot of pictures or video, or if you can just afford the upgrade, moving up to 1024 MB (1 GB) is not a bad idea. Memory prices are much lower than they used to be, and you’ll have extra memory for more programs now. For most users, the biggest advantage to getting more RAM is that if you keep your computer for a long time, the extra RAM could save you an upgrade down the road.

But how much RAM is too much? Well you won’t really slow down your system by adding RAM. Typical systems currently can accommodate up to anywhere from 512 MB - 2 GB of RAM. The problem is, after you have enough RAM, adding more really doesn’t get you much, if any performance gain.

With that in mind, check back soon for an article comparing performance of common applications, including multitasking, with different amounts of RAM. We’ll test from 256 MB to 1024MB, and you’ll be able to see how all we’ve covered here has a real affect on the speed of your computer.

Steve Perlow is the founder of aworldofhelp.com, where you can find the aworldofhelp Top Picks in desktop and notebook systems.

Visit aworldofhelp.com to get answers from real people to your questions about technology, travel and more.

What is Over-clocking a Processor?

Friday, June 27th, 2008

Q : What is over clocking?

Overclocking is when you make your system processor run faster that its normal
speed. This has many advantages and dis-advantages.

Advantages : This is obvious, your system will run faster

Dis-Advantages : Your hardware is likely to have a less life span. Your
components will run at higher temperatures and there is an increased chance your
system will overheat and crash. You need to be very careful or you could blow up
your processor and / or motherboard.

Q: What components do I need?

You need to buy a special motherboard. Most motherboards will automatically
detect your processor make and speed and you can not make any configuration
changes. When buying a motherboard you need to make sure that you can change the
processors bus speed. You will also need to buy some extra fans for your
computer as it will be working harder and as a result everything will run at a
higher temperature. It might also be worth looking for a case that can hold lots
of case fans.

Q: How do I overclock a processor?

What you need to do is over clock the processors bus speed. You will need to
check the manual that came with your motherboard on how to do this. I would
recommend that you start by only overclocking a little bit before you try to get
the most out of your processor.

Q: Tips for Over clocking?

Start by overclocking only by a small amount. If you overclock your processor to
much your system will not come on and there is a chance that you could damage
the processor and motherboard. If you do overclock your processor to much and
the computer does not come on you can reset your motherboards configuration by
removing the power at the back of your PC and also removing the battery on the
motherboard for a few minutes.

- Monitor the temperature of your processor. You can sometimes check this by
going into your computer BIOS as it will be displayed in there. If it is not in
there, there are freeware programs that you can download, Try searching
www.download.com

- Make sure you have a descent processor fan. Always buy a fan that supports
much faster processors as this will cool your processor much better. Buy and fit
as many case fans as you can.

- Before overclocking your processor do some research by searching the internet
for stories of what other people have done. This way you will know how much you
can realistically overclock.

Good luck, and remember post your stories and experiences of overclocking in our
forums

Article
http://www.computing-forums.com/computer/how-to-overclock-a-processor-46.htm

Jason Barrett
http://www.computing-forums.com

Buying / Selecting Computer Components

Friday, June 27th, 2008

This is the step takes the most time and consideration. Which parts do I buy? Which are best?

There are many good places to buy computer parts. You can go to a computer
retail store in your area. Although they often provide good warranties, you will
pay a little more than you would in other places. Sometimes, a lot more.

Case - There are two types of cases, Desktop and Tower. Desktop cases are short
and fat (Which can fit under your monitor nicely.) And towers are tall and slim
which are usually placed under the desk. Decided which one will fit in to your
environment best.

There are two different forms of computer cases. AT and ATX. you need to find
out which one you need. AT form cases are used for older computers, Pentium 1
and before. And ATX form cases are used for newer systems such as Pentium 2, 3,
4 and AMD Athlon etc.

Motherboard - The motherboard is the central component in the system. If you
want to upgrade your processor / Memory / Video card, you can only upgrade if
your motherboard supports it. It is always worth planning a head, So buy the
best motherboard you can afford.

Before you select a motherboard consider the following. What processor you want
to use with it. What memory does it support. Has it got an AGP slot?? An AGP
slot is used for special 3DFX graphic cards. What other expansion slots does it
have?? You will need a minimum of 3 PCI slots.

Hard drives run at special speeds. 33mhz, 66mhz, 100mhz and 133mhz, Check if the
motherboard supports the speed of your hard disk. If your hard drive runs at
100mhz and your motherboard only goes up to 66mhz, then your hard disk will
still run but not at its fastest speed.

Motherboards come in two different forms. AT and ATX, Make sure this form
matches the form of your case. Make sure you get a manual with your motherboard,
This manual will tell you how to configure your motherboard.

Processor - There are many different processors out but these are the main ones.

Pentium 4 / AMD-Athlon- This processor is the most expensive but the fastest
around. This processor is used in systems which need performance such as
performance gaming / servers / Web designing. Current fastest processor speed is
3200mhz 3.2ghz

Celeron / AMD-Duron - These processors are a lot cheaper than the Pentium 4 and
AMD Athlon. Usually used in mid user systems, such as word processing / surfing
the net / e-mail / gaming.

Cirix - Cheapest processors on the market. But are miles behind in performance
of Pentiums and AMDs.

You will need to decide on what processor you need, Also make sure your
motherboard supports it. Always make sure you buy a heatsink and fan to keep the
processor cool. Warning, If your fan is not good enough for your processor, then
your processor is very likely to overheat and crash your computer. And in the
long run damage your processor.

Memory - Memory is a big part of your machine, Check what your motherboard can
take. Buy the fastest memory your motherboard will take. Buy at least 128mb,
this is the bear minimum for these days. I would recommend 256mb.

CD-ROM/DVD : Every computer needs a CD-ROM to load software. There are a few
different types of CD-ROM. You can buy one that can write data to a CD-ROM. You
can also buy a CD-ROM which supports DVD. Check what speed the CD-ROM is. Usual
speed is 52x.

Hard Drive- When selecting a hard drive there are two things to consider, how
big is the capacity of the disk and how fast does it run. A 20gig drive will be
more than enough for most users. Make sure the speed of the hard drive is
supported on your motherboard, If it is not supported then the hard drive will
not run at its fastest speed, Consider a motherboard upgrade.

Video Card - There are loads of different video cards on the market, when
selecting consider these points. Does it fix into an AGP or a PCI slot in your
motherboard?? AGP is a special video slot, so buy a video card with an AGP form,
Also check your motherboard has an AGP slot. How much memory does the card have?
And how fast does it run?? I would recommend getting a video card with at least
32mb of memory.

Sound Card - Just about every computer has sound, I would not recommend spending
a lot of money on a sound unless you want your computer to support sur-round
sound. Check what slot the card plugs into and if your motherboard has one free.

Keyboard & Mouse - There is no need for much info here. But beware there are two
types of connections for a keyboard and mice they are PS/2 and USB, Make sure
your motherboard has available connections.

Article
http://www.computing-forums.com/computer/buying-the-components-21.htm

Jason Barrett http://www.computing-forums.com

Ceramic Disc Capacitor - How to Accurately Test It

Friday, June 20th, 2008

The last article I mentioned about electrolytic capacitor breakdown when under load. In this article I will talk about the high voltage resin coated ceramic disc capacitor. In computer monitor, it is frequent used in the screen voltage (G2) line at the crt board. When it fails, it can cause erratic or intermittently raster bright and dim and sometimes no display.

Adjusting the flyback transformer screen control will not solve this problem. You can isolate the problem as whether if it cause by a defective fly back or G2 line at crt board. Remove the G2 wire from circuit and measure the screen voltage with a digital multimeter- it should have a constant voltage (will not vary). If the voltage is not stable suspect the fly back. If it ok then trace the screen voltage circuit. Usually this circuit consist of only resistors and capacitors. Sometimes a defective crt socket might cause this type of problem also!

Many times a tech can’t solve this intermittent or no display problem is because their digital capacitance and ohmmeter measured ok on the capacitors. The capacitors in the screen voltage line are usually rated of 102,103, and 472 1kv to 2kv. A ‘missed’ in checking this capacitors will caused the technician can’t solve the problem, unless he direct replace the capacitor. An intermittent capacitor can pull down the screen voltage causing the display problem.

As mentioned earlier, an ohmmeter with 12v output and a digital capacitance with 3v output are unable to accurately check the capacitor that have the rating of 1-2 kilovolt!

If you have the analog insulation tester or meter, the panel will show a short circuit when certain voltage are pump in to check the high voltage capacitor. The voltages that you can select is depends on the brand or model you buy. Some have the range of 50v to 1000v and some have the range from 100v to 500v. It is optional whether you should have one. If you have one then it would be an added advantage for you. The other option that you have is to direct replace the suspected capacitor. In my country, you can get a new one in less than US150.00 or you may bid a used unit from eBay.

As for me, checking the small blue resin coated ceramic disc capacitor that have the capacitor code of 104 50v, besides using digital capacitance meter to check for the value, i also use an analog meter set to times 10Kohm that have the output of 12v to check this type of capacitor. Many times it will revealed the bad intermittent capacitor. You will be shocked to see the capacitance meter checked ok but show a shorted reading when check with analog multimeter.

In the market there is certain brand of analog multimeter that have the range of 100kohm. If you open up the cover, you can’t see the 9v battery in it, what you see only the 2 pieces of 1.5v battery. This type of meter can’t accurately detect the short in the capacitor because the output voltage is only 3volt!

For those of you who involved in repairing monitor, you will agree with me that checking the flyback internal capacitance- quite often you get the right value 2.7nf with digital capacitance meter but when you switch on the monitor, you will hear a ‘tick-tick’ sound from the flyback. This is because the capacitor is breaking down when under load. If you did not do anything with the flyback, gradually the internal capacitance will become shorted and you will need to refurbish the flyback.

Jestine Yong is a electronic repairer and a writer and if you want to become a professional in testing electronic components please visit his website at http://www.TestingElectronicComponents.com


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